PRACTICAL 6, Hand Sewing Techniques

- December 04, 2020

BANARSIDAS CHANDIWALA INSTITUTE OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT & CATERING TECHNOLOGY

Course Name: BHMCT Semester: 3^rd Paper Code: BHCT- 257

Practical: Basic Hand Sewing Techniques Week: 10 & 11

Objective: Students will be able to learn basic hand sewing techniques.

Knowing basic hand sewing techniques allows you to quickly make repairs and do small projects. Even if you have a sewing machine, there are times that hand sewing is better to give you the results you want. Some basics of Hand Sewing Techniques are:

1. Thread a Hand Sewing Needle: Threading a sewing needle can be an exasperating task. There are tips and tricks that can help make it less frustrating. For example, place a white background behind the needle to make it easier to see the eye and thread. Cut the thread with sharp scissors (to prevent frayed ends) at a 45-degree angle. Be sure to stiffen the thread using water, saliva, or wax. If you still have difficulty, use a needle threader tool or tweezers.

2. Use a Needle Threader: Needle threaders come with some sewing needles and can be purchased in almost all sewing sections. These are the basics:

· Place the handle of the threader in your dominant hand, holding it between your thumb and forefinger.

· Insert the diamond-shaped wire through the eye of the needle, all the way to the handle of the needle

· Pass the thread through the diamond-shaped wire (which is a much bigger target than the eye of the needle). Keep hold of the thread in one hand.

· Draw the needle away from the threader handle and back up the wire. With that action, the thread passes through the eye of the needle and threads the needle.

3. Hand Sewing Needles: Hand sewing needles are available in all kinds of shapes and forms. In most cases, the larger the size number, the smaller the needle. Finer needles are used with thin or delicate fabrics while heavier needles are used with thicker fabrics.

4. Knot the End of Hand Sewing Thread: With a little bit of practice, you will be creating a perfect knot. The basic procedure:

· Place the end of the thread on your pointer finger, holding it in place with your thumb.

· Wrap the thread around your pointer finger a couple of times.

· Using your thumb, slide the thread loops towards the end of your pointer finger. The loops will wrap around each other as they travel toward the end of your pointer finger.

· Slide the loose knot to the end of the tread, then tug on the thread to tighten the knot.

TYPES OF STITCHES

1. Whip Stitch

The whip stitch is one of the easiest hand stitching techniques you can learn. This hand stitch consists of short diagonal stitches often used in hemming. To create this stitch, follow these step-by-step instructions:

· Pull the thread or your threaded needle through your top fabric, making sure the knot stays in between the two fabrics.

· Pierce through your bottom fabric and exit at the same place you started with on the top fabric. This will lock in your starting stitches in place.

· Push the needle through the bottom fabric, creating a diagonal stitch on the edges of your fabric. Your needle and thread must exit the top fabric to secure the fabrics together.

· Repeat the process until you’ve reached the ends of your fabrics. Don’t forget to lock in your stitches.

2. Catch Stitch

The catch stitch is identified by the crisscross stitches, great for front-facing fabrics and hemming-lined garments. This hand stitching technique allows for a bit of a give and is also a great stitch to work on circular garments like tablecloths. Unlike most hand-sewn stitches, this technique starts from the left. To learn more about this stitch, refer to the following steps:

· Starting at the opposite end of where you usually start, pull the thread or your threaded needle.

· Make a diagonal stitch from where you popped your threaded needle to the other fabric.

· Pull your threaded needle a small length away and make a diagonal stitch back to your starting fabric.

· Get a bit of your fabric and continue making diagonal stitches until you’ve attached the two fabrics.

3. Basting Stitch

The basting stitch is great for temporarily holding pieces of fabric together. Do a quick and large straight stitch to perform this pattern. Usually, it is sewn using a thread of a different color from the fabric to make it easier to spot which stitches are just placeholders and for easier removal. Follow these easy steps to create this stitch:

· Take the needle in and out of the fabric of up to ¼ to ½ inch long.

· You can make several stitches by popping the needle in and out of the fabric before pulling through.

· Do not lock the stitch from both ends.

4. Running Stitch

The running stitch is one of the most common and basic stitches you can do, both by hand and by machine. Sewing by machine assures precision and firmness. But, sewing by hand is great for a speedy stitcher and quick stitches and for stitching together narrow spaces that cannot be reached by machine. See the following steps to make this stitch:

· Take the needle in and out of the fabric up to your desired stitch length.

· You may also make several stitches by popping your needle in and out the fabric at equidistant lengths before pulling your needle through the fabric.

· Make sure stitches are locked once done.

5. Back Stitch

The back stitch features small stitches that can hold a great amount of strength. This hand stitching technique works well with mending seams or in a seam that will resist a lot of strains and pulls. Learn how to make this stitch by going through these steps:

· Pull your threaded needle from the underside of your fabric.

· Make a single running stitch.

· From the underside of your fabric, pull the thread to keep the stitch taut.

· Bring your needle up again, piercing through the fabric at a distance equivalent to the length of your single running stitch. Use the photo above for reference.

· Repeat the process until you finish your stitches.

6. Slip Stitch or Ladder Stitch

The slip stitch is commonly used to make hidden seams in between two fold edges of a flat edge. It is also called a ladder stitch because, in the process of doing this stitch, you are creating ladders with your threads. This stitch is used for bindings, closing a lining, applying an applique invisibly, or closing stuffed sewing projects. Here’s how you can do it:

· Iron the folds of the fabric.

· Take the threaded needle underneath the fold to hide the knot.

· Pull the needle and thread out from the folded edge.

· Grab a little bit of fabric underneath from the opposite side of the folded fabric.

· Pull the needle out.

· Insert the needle again to the opposite side.

· Repeat the same pattern until you close the opening.

7. Blind Hem Stitch

The blind hem stitch is called as such because you are essentially creating invisible hems with this stitch. Just like the ladder stitch, you grab a little bit of the fabric and produce an almost flawless hem. This hand stitching technique works wonders on lighter and silkier fabrics. Learn how to make the blind hem stitch by following these steps:

· Slip the threaded needle underneath the folded side of the fabric to hide the knot.

· From underneath, pull your needle out and through.

· Grab a bit of the fabric underneath where the hem is sitting.

· Then, grab the folded part of the fabric again from the side where you started.

· Repeat the same pattern until you finish the opening.